The Greek village that is not on your Pinterest
Yes, this may be Greece but not the Greece you have been to. On the island of Corfu, you can find a village that dates back to the 16th century. Secluded is the right word. One road in one road out. A place where your wifi isn't the best and you're forced to walk outside. You might notice a difference here, things you don't usually see in your hometown nowadays. Kids playing outside, people talking to one another and hundreds of wild cats roaming the streets or should I say own the streets?
That is only a couple of scenes I want you to imagine. Although you might find lush mountains, pristine beaches, and intriguing architecture there is a not so compelling side to Agios Mattheos. Abandoned buildings are left behind with contents of the unknown. Locals deprived of winter months were forced to go to the mainland for an income. And animals loose in the streets starved and beaten. I will uncover the balance of the sweet and salt of the lesser-known Village of Agios Mattheos, Corfu.
I spent a month documenting the lives of the locals. I captured patterns of routines of food and lifestyle choices. I wanted to grasp a life where they knew nothing beyond their homeland. Most of the residents have not left, while some have. Their daily life is all that is known apart from social media.
The heat of the day was brutal. The scorching heat waves traveled through the tight alleyways. The diminutive hallways are so small in fact that the leaking aged air conditioners dripped on your shoulders as you guided through. As the water dripped, you found puddles mixed with animal defecation from lack of control. The locals took turns caring for their streets. Often sweeping and carrying large buckets of water to splash the grime away. The neighborly effort held everything together.
Many roads coming to an end and tunnels you thought you already passed lead you to feel strange. Weary is better verbiage, you feel as if you are inside of a Hollywood set or at Universal Studios. I winded through, ducking and dodging thorned bougainvillea trying to throw myself in the mouth of the village. The fantasy of reality is astonishing. You often forget that these are the types of locations that inspire major motion film sets. The allurement of chaos always wins.
After finding my way I was usually greeted by elderly women sitting in broken plastic lawn chairs. Often smoking a drag and not using a word of English, but we somehow knew what each other was saying. It's comical how a camera and curiosity can create a human connection. Instead of passing through, I choose to look. Dive deeper in the eyes of a different life. Each wrinkle tells a story, and each tile laid shares a memory.
The women of the village are inspiring. If they could, they would have hard work written on their forehead. The generations of women and men that kept this place alive are impressive. The people are always up to something whether it is peeling vegetables, hanging laundry, or rebuilding an engine.
The labor went beyond their front door and poured into the street.
The village demands chores of the inhabitants, it is not an easy life most days. I came to realize not everyone was in the mood to talk. I noticed some had a quiet gaze. I'd pass by multiple times to find them daydreaming on the porches, overhearing the static buzz of a sports game from an old TV or radio.
Our language barrier in these scenarios did not help. While a desire to connect I respected the shadow they stayed in. I watched as they sent the young children away to the beach nearby. In hopes of the quiet hour.
Families gathered across the coastline after hiking through the winding roads to get there. You can get carried away by the abundance of trails. These trails do not lack life. You can find animals both deadly and harmless. As for the deadly group, you can find ohia snakes, brown bears, and Mediterranean moray eels just to name a few. The most warned about predators is the Beach Marten also known as the Stone Marten. Although they are no bigger than a cat they can cause significant damage.
You will find this animal in warm places like Agios Mattheos. They are found on rooftops and surprisingly car engines. The scent from the engine attracts them. Their sharp teeth can shred through the cables causing major damage to your vehicle. Stone martens are not endangered and are on the rise according to multiple sources. Locals are always on the lookout to protect their property.
Although I did not encounter any harmful animals during my month's stay, if you look you might find one. Many bird species are found in Corfu as well as sea life. Pods of dolphins flock to shorelines to feed and around more tourist locations on the island, you can find sea turtles and tortoises.
As for the architecture, you will be fascinated. The homes bleached by the sun offered an array of colors. The personal touch of the rays mesmerized me. Even the crumbling architecture gave this undying beauty the modern eye does not encounter often. Saturated hues of flowers cover homes, even the unwanted ones. You will find the style to be Venetian and Ionian. The homes are stacked in layers from top to bottom with obscure “roads” leading you to the front doors. You feel as if you need a map to rummage through. You will find random forms of businesses coming from the homes.
Every day I saw women getting their hair styled in basically a shed. Rigged hair dryers help put food on the table. Homemade olive oil, honey, and wine were displayed out front like a yard sale. The hard work of the summer pays off in winter.
The empty homes act like odds between the homes occupied acting like even. The back and forth showed no pattern of liveable versus non. The story for everyone had a different ending and a wonder of conclusion. One thing acted the same, when the bells of the cathedral rang, the locals flocked. The courtyard overlooking the village is filled with women, men, and children.
The “odds” of empty homes. The broken dreams of families are scattered in the abandoned structures. The doors unlatched unravel a time of the past. Layers of dust cover made beds and pastime memorabilia.
Exploring these homes made you ponder. Wild orchids and forgotten plants attach themselves to the colorful walls of the village. Random staircases leading to nowhere embodied by the backdrop of the mountain make you feel minuscule. Some roofs caved in with no plans of rebuilding showing the poverty. Shards of glass disperse across hot asphalt.
Framing the dark walls of the inside from smashed windows. An eerie yet exhilarating experience, it makes you thankful for what you have.
The rows of these buildings co-exist together. A casual normal encounter here in Agios Mattheos.
The people here take pride in their religion, often having parades with marching bands to show their appreciation for Mary. Followed by celebratory drinks and pastries. I found a local music hall where you hear the practice of mostly brass and woodwind instruments, and percussion is sometimes added. The songs from young and old players stretched far.
The sound of mopeds and four-wheelers echo off the plaster. Since the roads won't fit cars the residents have decided the best route for transportation. Even though the entirety of the village is quite small, delivering certain supplies up and down is handy for them. Agios Mattheos only offers one main road that can only fit one car at a time. Everything is either north or south of the main street.
Supplies are not the only reason for the vehicles. They also use them to go to the local beach ( Prasoudi ) and to flee to a bigger grocery store. A small selection of refrigerated goods is offered here, forcing locals to look elsewhere. Small bodega-style stores are lined on the main streets. Mostly canned goods and frozen feta pies. You won't find a large selection of fresh products. After talking to the trattoria owner who serves traditional Greek cuisine, the young owner explained after taking on the restaurant from his dad he is forced to outsource his ingredients and water. Most of the time coming from Corfu Town. On most days in summer, it takes around forty-five minutes to drive. The distance not being sofar but the speed limits and narrow roads lead to longer road time.
Although the beach is close by, fun activities seemed to start as the sun went down. An out of ordinary experience for me was seeing the children roaming the streets well past ten o'clock. While the parents clinked their drinks with the toast of “Yammas!” And serious card games were played.
Overwhelming aromas of baked goods and meat roasting for gyros filled the street. The horns honking by the occasional car weaving through the children's fútbol game were almost as loud as the grandma's gossip. I enjoyed listening with zero comprehension. The language melting into my ears as I photographed was inspiring.
I was expected to be pushed away for being a foreigner but why was I so naive? I endured chatter upon chatter and freegifts from friendships made. They taught me something. They showed community and a helping hand. Building each other up, they worked with what they had. They make things happen. They celebrate in their own way. Singing songs, playing instruments, and screaming over an unfair card game just to name a few. The bittersweet game of work and play.
Unfortunately, the struggles go beyond the humans here. Dozens if not hundreds of cats and kittens call this their home too. I am still not sure why this is, but they are here, like most places in Greece. Most of them starved to the ribcage and chunks of fur ripped from cat fights. The hurt I felt for these animals hit the pit of my stomach. The locals can only provide so much but the overwhelming amount of them makes it impossible without bigger action.
You can bet you will make a friend or two with them, I made a special connection. A cat I named Snow White because of the color of her fur. She followed me for many days on my photography walks. She sometimes would lead me to her secret places. You will not go a day without seeing plenty, and I hope we continue to help these beings for days to come.
I have conversed tirelessly about the village but what about the nature that surrounds it? Many feet have traveled the trails of Mount Galilios. Some desperate and hungry finding refuge in the monastery still standing today. Along the trails, you might find shrines of Mary encapsulated in a small room. I'm guessing it's another form of refuge. After a strenuous hike up I was on top of the world. Accompanied by a cross to ensure you knew you had reached your destination. The bird's eye overlook lets you see for miles. High winds aided you from the intensity of the Mediterranean sun. The ocean blue so clearly holds seafood that the locals depend on. Seafood is a staple in Greek cuisine.
A step back in time. Truly, Agios Mattheos has an old soul. Food traditions, religion, and trade date back for generations.These are a strong breed of people who do not give up. They live on. There's no need for change because they are content with what they have. A location of the world I stumbled upon became a story to tell. The sweetness of nothing and the freedom of everything. Agios Mattheos forces you to slow down. Forces you to listen and receive. It might not be the typical postcard beauty but the heritage and history beg for attention. Thank you for opening my eyes to a different lifestyle.
